A Private Itinerary by Nathan Monteux
Four Days in Provence
If I had four days to introduce someone to Provence, this is exactly where I would take them. Not the most famous places, but the ones that capture the spirit of the region — vineyards and olive groves, hilltop villages and ruins, long lunches beneath plane trees, and evenings that seem to last forever.
Day One
Avignon & the Land of the Popes
Where the journey begins slowly
Morning
Wander the Palais des Papes, then cross the Rhône to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. The gardens of the Abbaye Saint-André offer one of the region's most beautiful views — the city, the river, the distant hills.
Afternoon
Continue through the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. No need to rush — a few estates, a tasting, the smaller roads through the vines.
Evening
Arrive at Château Saint-Victor-la-Coste — quieter, more intimate, remarkably untouched. Stay for dinner.
Where I Would Dine
- Le Vin Devant Soi Avignon · wine bar €€€€
- Entre Vigne et Garrigue Pujaut · 1★ €€€€
- La Mère Germaine Châteauneuf-du-Pape €€€€
Stay Château Saint-Victor-la-Coste · Château de Massillan · La Divine Comédie
Day Two
The Ventoux
Some places deserve an entire afternoon
Morning
Head to Le Barroux, its château rising above vineyards and cypress, with Mont Ventoux beyond. Drive to the summit, or simply follow its lower roads — among the most beautiful landscapes in Provence.
Afternoon
Arrive at Crillon le Brave — and stay. The mistake most travellers make is treating it as a stop. It isn't. The pool, a long lunch, a glass of rosé, the light changing across the vineyards below.
Where I Would Dine
- Vin Ensèn Caromb · bistrot & wine bar €€€€
- La Table du Ventoux Crillon le Brave €€€€
Stay Crillon le Brave
Day Three
The Luberon
The Provence of books and films
Morning
Reach Gordes before the coaches arrive — the village still belongs to itself. Nearby, the Abbaye de Sénanque hides among stone walls and lavender fields.
Midday
Follow the roads through Roussillon and Bonnieux, the heart of the Luberon. Lunch at Racines.
Afternoon
Drift between vineyards and olive groves — Domaine de Fontenille, then La Bastide de Marie. Somehow, it is even better in reality.
Where I Would Dine
- Le Mas Gordes · market cuisine €€€€
- Domitia — Maison de Cuisinier Les Beaumettes €€€€
- Auberge de la Bartavelle Goult €€€€
- Omma Roussillon · ochre views €€€€
- La Table de Xavier Mathieu Joucas · 1★ €€€€
Stay La Bastide de Gordes · Domaine de Fontenille · La Bastide de Marie
Day Four
The Alpilles
If there is one place to end, it is here
Morning
Begin in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue — antique dealers along the canals, coffee beside the water. Then Saint-Rémy-de-Provence: the old town, Glanum, the landscapes that inspired Van Gogh. For wine lovers, Domaine Henri Milan is worth the detour.
Evening
Finish in Les Baux-de-Provence, late, when the crowds have gone and the stone begins to glow. Walk to the château, look out over the Alpilles. Dinner at Baumanière — a final glass of wine beneath the trees, and one last sunset.
Where I Would Dine
- La Guinguette du Mas de Nierne Saint-Rémy · open-air €€€€
- Bistrot Canto Cigalo Saint-Rémy €€€€
- L'Auberge de Saint-Rémy Fanny Rey · 2★ €€€€
- L'Aupiho Les Baux · Manville · 1★ €€€€
- L'Oustau de Baumanière Les Baux · 3★ €€€€
Stay Château des Alpilles · Baumanière
Le Carnet
Where I would stay
- 01 Château Saint-Victor-la-Coste
- 02 Crillon le Brave
- 03 La Bastide de Gordes
- 04 Domaine de Fontenille
- 05 La Bastide de Marie
- 06 Château des Alpilles
- 07 Château de Massillan
- 08 Baumanière, Les Baux-de-Provence
When to go
MayJuneSeptemberOctober
When the light is soft, the roads are quiet, and Provence feels exactly as it should.
- €€€€ Relaxed
- €€€€ Characterful
- €€€€ Refined
- €€€€ Gastronomic
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I'll send the printed edition as a PDF — and, now and then, a private note from Provence.
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The guide is on its way. I'll write now and then — never often.